Tuesday, January 31, 2012

New Look 6097

I saw this pattern and had to make it. I love the wrap top and the pockets and the skirt...great dress!

Well, it was a bit frustrating trying to pick out a size. I measure for an 18, but 18's never fit me. So, usually I make a 14 or 16 and then cut a smaller shoulder/neck area since I am short waisted. I don't sew too many New Look patterns so I'm not sure if this is standard or not, but it had seperate pieces for about 3 sizes. So cutting out a 16 through the bust but 14 in the shoulders would have been tricky. I think the 16 top pieces had the 12, 16 and 20 on it. I usually grade the shoulders to the smaller size.

I was really torn on the 14 or 16 for this. The bust finished measurement is only 1 inch ease if I remember correctly, so the 16 measured 39 inches. But the waist measurement had, I think, around 5 or 6 inches of ease built in. Then I realized the waist had an elastic casing in it to snug it up. Now to me, the dress looks all across rather form fitting. I don't get how the elastic waist with that much ease would look. Long story short, I decided to cut the 16, even though when I put the Vogue 8379 bodice piece that fits me great(which is similar) on top of the 14 and 16, it matched the 14 pretty well. Doh!!!

So, I'm wishing I would have cut out the 14. The bodice is droopy and has gapiosis, but if that was gone there would be excellent coverage. Now, I'm not sure, but this could be a technique issue. They have you fold a neckline facing piece, stitch it on then understitch. It seems mine got stretched out in the understitching even though I had the tension and everything correct. It got kind of wavy. I thought I had pulled enough "extra" through on the bottom of the bodice when I basted it but it still gapes. I don't feel like I'm going to expose myself though and with a cami on under it, it looks ok. Next time, I will skip the facing and just fold over and use clear elastic.

Next time, despite the finished measurements, I will cut out a 14, or if I cut a 16, I will take up the shoulders a good inch! There is a lot of extra room in the bust, even on me!

The pockets are another issue though. They have you stitch them then topstitch them...wavy!!! I though about sticking some clear elastic in between before the initial stitching and wish I had.

And the waistband, they have you create a casing when you sew the skirt to the bodice. Then, to secure it they have you tack it at the sides. I went ahead and created a casing by folding up the seam allowance instead. There is a seam line visible but I didn't want the casing flipping around on me.

All in all, this is a nice dress. This one is wearable but if I make it again I will tweak a few things. I think the lines of the dress are slightly different than what is represented on the drawing and picture. The picture seems very form fitted but I think if sewn up according to the pattern it would be less fitted.

I skipped the belt too.


KID, MD said...

So cute! I loved this style when NL put out the spring release. Go you for sewing it already!! Thanks for all the sizing info. I don't sew that much New Look for myself either, so it is good to know where to watch out. I know you see all the flaws (don't we always!), but from where I'm looking, it looks really great!

Kristine said...

I love the style lines, thanks for the review! Nice job, you look great!

Rachel said...

I saw this pattern and thought it was awesome. I'm glad you beat me to the punch. I'll make the changes you suggested. Thanks for the review. The dress looks great and you did a fabulous job.

MAD14kt said...

Well done!

Valerie said...

I really like this pattern. You dress looks lovely and I never would have guessed from the photos that you had any fit issues at all!

LinB said...

Agreed. The dress looks great, and you look great in it! As for stretching out when understitching (or regular stitching, come to think of it) on knit fabrics, I use Sandra Betzina's tip. Put your index finger right up behind the presser foot as you sew, and crowd the fabric coming out behind the needle. Release the finger every once in a while, to let the sewn fabric fall out of the way, then put your finger back. This technique keeps the feed dogs from stretching knits out of shape as you sew. It's sort of the opposite of taut sewing, where you are pulling your fabric absolutely straight to help the feed dogs sew a straight line for you. I would never have believed it to work until I saw her illustrate how to do it, on her old t.v. show.

theperfectnose said...

Ooh another pattern we've both picked. I'll be making this once I'm done with the V1228! Thanks for sharing.

Sassy T said...

Love the fit, it looks fab on you.

thornberry said...

Your dress looks great, and your review is really helpful. I'm about to cut this out and was in a big dilemma about which size to cut - I too am short waisted, and usually cut the shoulders in a smaller size than the bodice. I was going to cut a 14 - about one inch negative ease around the bust - but now I'm considering the 12. Thanks so much!